Thursday, January 12, 2012

Community Kitchen: Central BBQ in in the middle of the Memphis scene

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Central BBQ in in the middle of the Memphis scene

Posted January 9, 2012 at 10:06 a.m.

Nicholas Jain photo

A pulled pork plate from Central BBQ in Memphis may be the best plate of meat in town.

The idea of Memphis barbecue transcends any single eatery. Even the world?s largest pork barbecue contest in May is something bigger than the sum of the city?s restaurants. Memphis barbecue is a way of life that?s existed longer than anyone can remember.

It?s changing though. Great barbecue restaurants come and go. Even the way Memphis barbecue is cooked has changed. Memphis pit masters began to smoke meat using hardwoods around 30 years ago. Before that, they smoked with lump charcoal and the loyalty to the coals is clear at the downtown Memphis mainstay the Rendezvous with it?s sign inviting eaters in for ?Rendezvous Charcoal Ribs.?

Memphis barbecue has become a commodity to be exported. The Rendezvous overnight ships ribs via the other famous business in Memphis, FedEx. Corky?s does the same, and has locations in six states. Interstate and Neely?s Bar-B-Que has become known for the Food Network show ?Down Home with the Neelys.? But as these bastions of barbecue spread, the quality has been stretched a little thin and the barbecue restaurants that outsiders most connect with Memphis aren?t where Memphis dwellers eat.

As I drive through midtown Memphis, it seems like there is a current or former barbecue restaurant on every corner. One of the newer eateries among them is Central BBQ. Most of my friends who live in Memphis say this is their favorite and--for what it?s worth--I agree. It?s only been around since 2002 so the memorabilia on the shelves may not match the more established barbecue counters in the town. But the meat on the plate is tops, and better than TOPS Bar-B-Que, another Memphis franchise thats expansion around the Mid-South Memphis has left the restaurants all over the place.

A red and white checked tile roof and the patio in front adorned with pigs draws patrons in to the Central Avenue location and that is if the smell doesn?t reach them first. This place is in an old part of town, near Christian Brothers University, the once-grand Overton Square and Liberty Bowl. That and a certain grunginess masks the newness. The fun, framed four-by-six photos of people eating barbecue make it very homey. This is University of Memphis Tiger country, and I think I?d be afraid to enter wearing Tennessee Volunteer orange especially during basketball season. The employees wear shirts supporting the Tigers, and the University of Memphis paraphernalia almost fills as much wall space as barbecue and blues items. A sign outside jokes that hippies should enter in back, but looking though the crowd some of the indie rock T-shirts and beanies tell a different story. All sorts of people come to Central BBQ to eat. Ribs are like gold in Memphis and the Central ribs don?t disappoint. They?re tender but don?t fall apart and the dry-rub is amazing. But the real treat on the menu is the pulled pork. By itself or on a sandwich, the taste will blow you away. It?s moist enough that the sauce is optional and it is so tender it hardly requires chewing, but it?s not mushy either. The bits of meat with bark let you experience the depth of the flavor without the grease.

Thirsty? The last time I was there, they had a few Schlafly beers on draft so you won?t even feel far from Missouri. Barbecue beans and homemade potato chips are the perfect accompaniment. And be sure to grab a bag of pork rinds to continue the meal the next day.

Don?t forget dessert. The 5-layer-cakes, especially caramel, are terrific. Central BBQ shows the Memphis barbecue establishment that sometimes there's something to be learned from the new kid and I hope that Central ages well and keeps smoking some of the best pigs in town.

Central BBQ in in the middle of the Memphis scene

Community Kitchen

Posted Monday, January 9, 2012 at 10:06 a.m.


Nicholas Jain photo

A pulled pork plate from Central BBQ in Memphis may be the best plate of meat in town.

The idea of Memphis barbecue transcends any single eatery. Even the world?s largest pork barbecue contest in May is something bigger than the sum of the city?s restaurants. Memphis barbecue is a way of life that?s existed longer than anyone can remember.

It?s changing though. Great barbecue restaurants come and go. Even the way Memphis barbecue is cooked has changed. Memphis pit masters began to smoke meat using hardwoods around 30 years ago. Before that, they smoked with lump charcoal and the loyalty to the coals is clear at the downtown Memphis mainstay the Rendezvous with it?s sign inviting eaters in for ?Rendezvous Charcoal Ribs.?

Memphis barbecue has become a commodity to be exported. The Rendezvous overnight ships ribs via the other famous business in Memphis, FedEx. Corky?s does the same, and has locations in six states. Interstate and Neely?s Bar-B-Que has become known for the Food Network show ?Down Home with the Neelys.? But as these bastions of barbecue spread, the quality has been stretched a little thin and the barbecue restaurants that outsiders most connect with Memphis aren?t where Memphis dwellers eat.

As I drive through midtown Memphis, it seems like there is a current or former barbecue restaurant on every corner. One of the newer eateries among them is Central BBQ. Most of my friends who live in Memphis say this is their favorite and--for what it?s worth--I agree. It?s only been around since 2002 so the memorabilia on the shelves may not match the more established barbecue counters in the town. But the meat on the plate is tops, and better than TOPS Bar-B-Que, another Memphis franchise thats expansion around the Mid-South Memphis has left the restaurants all over the place.

A red and white checked tile roof and the patio in front adorned with pigs draws patrons in to the Central Avenue location and that is if the smell doesn?t reach them first. This place is in an old part of town, near Christian Brothers University, the once-grand Overton Square and Liberty Bowl. That and a certain grunginess masks the newness. The fun, framed four-by-six photos of people eating barbecue make it very homey. This is University of Memphis Tiger country, and I think I?d be afraid to enter wearing Tennessee Volunteer orange especially during basketball season. The employees wear shirts supporting the Tigers, and the University of Memphis paraphernalia almost fills as much wall space as barbecue and blues items. A sign outside jokes that hippies should enter in back, but looking though the crowd some of the indie rock T-shirts and beanies tell a different story. All sorts of people come to Central BBQ to eat. Ribs are like gold in Memphis and the Central ribs don?t disappoint. They?re tender but don?t fall apart and the dry-rub is amazing. But the real treat on the menu is the pulled pork. By itself or on a sandwich, the taste will blow you away. It?s moist enough that the sauce is optional and it is so tender it hardly requires chewing, but it?s not mushy either. The bits of meat with bark let you experience the depth of the flavor without the grease.

Thirsty? The last time I was there, they had a few Schlafly beers on draft so you won?t even feel far from Missouri. Barbecue beans and homemade potato chips are the perfect accompaniment. And be sure to grab a bag of pork rinds to continue the meal the next day.

Don?t forget dessert. The 5-layer-cakes, especially caramel, are terrific. Central BBQ shows the Memphis barbecue establishment that sometimes there's something to be learned from the new kid and I hope that Central ages well and keeps smoking some of the best pigs in town.

Community Kitchen

Posted Monday, January 9, 2012 at 10:06 a.m.


Nicholas Jain photo

A pulled pork plate from Central BBQ in Memphis may be the best plate of meat in town.

The idea of Memphis barbecue transcends any single eatery. Even the world?s largest pork barbecue contest in May is something bigger than the sum of the city?s restaurants. Memphis barbecue is a way of life that?s existed longer than anyone can remember.

It?s changing though. Great barbecue restaurants come and go. Even the way Memphis barbecue is cooked has changed. Memphis pit masters began to smoke meat using hardwoods around 30 years ago. Before that, they smoked with lump charcoal and the loyalty to the coals is clear at the downtown Memphis mainstay the Rendezvous with it?s sign inviting eaters in for ?Rendezvous Charcoal Ribs.?

Memphis barbecue has become a commodity to be exported. The Rendezvous overnight ships ribs via the other famous business in Memphis, FedEx. Corky?s does the same, and has locations in six states. Interstate and Neely?s Bar-B-Que has become known for the Food Network show ?Down Home with the Neelys.? But as these bastions of barbecue spread, the quality has been stretched a little thin and the barbecue restaurants that outsiders most connect with Memphis aren?t where Memphis dwellers eat.

As I drive through midtown Memphis, it seems like there is a current or former barbecue restaurant on every corner. One of the newer eateries among them is Central BBQ. Most of my friends who live in Memphis say this is their favorite and--for what it?s worth--I agree. It?s only been around since 2002 so the memorabilia on the shelves may not match the more established barbecue counters in the town. But the meat on the plate is tops, and better than TOPS Bar-B-Que, another Memphis franchise thats expansion around the Mid-South Memphis has left the restaurants all over the place.

A red and white checked tile roof and the patio in front adorned with pigs draws patrons in to the Central Avenue location and that is if the smell doesn?t reach them first. This place is in an old part of town, near Christian Brothers University, the once-grand Overton Square and Liberty Bowl. That and a certain grunginess masks the newness. The fun, framed four-by-six photos of people eating barbecue make it very homey. This is University of Memphis Tiger country, and I think I?d be afraid to enter wearing Tennessee Volunteer orange especially during basketball season. The employees wear shirts supporting the Tigers, and the University of Memphis paraphernalia almost fills as much wall space as barbecue and blues items. A sign outside jokes that hippies should enter in back, but looking though the crowd some of the indie rock T-shirts and beanies tell a different story. All sorts of people come to Central BBQ to eat. Ribs are like gold in Memphis and the Central ribs don?t disappoint. They?re tender but don?t fall apart and the dry-rub is amazing. But the real treat on the menu is the pulled pork. By itself or on a sandwich, the taste will blow you away. It?s moist enough that the sauce is optional and it is so tender it hardly requires chewing, but it?s not mushy either. The bits of meat with bark let you experience the depth of the flavor without the grease.

Thirsty? The last time I was there, they had a few Schlafly beers on draft so you won?t even feel far from Missouri. Barbecue beans and homemade potato chips are the perfect accompaniment. And be sure to grab a bag of pork rinds to continue the meal the next day.

Don?t forget dessert. The 5-layer-cakes, especially caramel, are terrific. Central BBQ shows the Memphis barbecue establishment that sometimes there's something to be learned from the new kid and I hope that Central ages well and keeps smoking some of the best pigs in town.

Source: http://www.columbiatribune.com/weblogs/community-kitchen/2012/jan/09/central-bbq-in-in-the-middle-of-the-memphis-scene/

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